After Alexander McQueen died, Franchenetti fired from Valentino, Oliver leaving Nina Ricci....and many other actions, it makes you wonder, what exactly is wrong with certian aspects of the industry? I think its a shame that some people don't recognize that its the younger designers that get it right. It's nice to buy a Chanel bag from Karl Lagerfeld, or admire a tacky Balmain dress by Decarin, but its caught my attention that its actually the older, more mature designers that get it wrong every once in a while, whether it be in terms of originality, taste, or working under a house. Karl obviously made a doo-doo with the F/W 2010 collection, sending Chubaka after Chubaka down the runway. Decarin tries to do "youth", but delivers overly-embellished, skimpy clothes every February and September. Valentino even created his own definition of beauty, and fought for it to be appreciated and it worked; however Valentino himself isn't at the house anymore now is he. It seems that the generation of designers born between the mid 70-s, late 80's have this spark. They seem to have a better understanding of design, and yes DESIGN. Not just fashion and clothing and fabric.
I experience this myself every day, seeing some of my fashion design friends sketch and create garments. It seems that most of them, refer to a cut, a time period in fashion, or a particular style. It helps but hinders. When your not a aspiring fashion designer, or are into another aspect of design and look in from the outside, it changes your way of thinking. All other aspects of design focus more on the world, and how you think and interpret it. Everything has a deeper meaning to it, and when explored, you tend to think beyond what's commercial, couture, and avant garde, and create a whole new category for your mind as your own resource. McQueen worked with tailors, and costume designers before he went onto create what he's done.The Mulleavy sister have degrees in Art History and Literature, and when combined, create the works of art they make today. I think that our generation in general have a more liberal and open mind when it comes to art in general, which allows the designers to think deeper in terms of concept. Older designers still seem to stick to the traditional aspect of things while trying to interpret what's new and fresh, which come off as a complete fail. Because truthfully, what fairly young woman would want youth delivered by a older person? It's similar to the relationship with my mother. It's not cool when she says "dude" specifically because she's older and to me, will never truly know the meaning of "dude" or how to interpret it. The same goes for designers. Its all fun and it sells but everyone that takes interest in fashion searches for pieces that go deep in explanation and visually reshape the human body. The designers below seem to think beyond 20's and 60's and "mod" and "punk" and "chic" and bias-cut and empire-waist and deliver design, whether its wearable or not. And even if they miss on some collections, when its a hit, its beyond anything ever seen.
Alexander McQueen ( created a truly Haute Couture house) - 40
Oliver (changed Nina Ricci) - 33
Alexander Wang - 25
Kate and Laura Mulleavy - 26 and 24
Alessandra Facchinetti ( made Valentino youthful )- 38
Jason Wu - 28
Pedro Lourenco ( showing his collection at Paris Fashion Week)- 19
Nicolas Ghesquiere (modernized Balenciaga) - 39
Hopefully, sooner than later, "generation now" can get the respect it deserves.....
